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We assume you clicked on this article because you desperately want to know how to treat closed comedones yourself, and we couldn’t get it more. Most of us have been ambushed by whiteheads (as they’re commonly called) at some point, and they can be incredibly annoying—and difficult to clear up.
What exactly are “whiteheads”? The term is a bit of a misnomer because, nope, we’re not talking about zits with white, pus-filled heads that are so tempting to squeeze, Kavita Mariwalla, MD, founder of Mariwalla Dermatology in Long Island, New York, tells SELF. In fact, whiteheads—which are technically an early stage of acne—aren’t even really poppable, Dr. Mariwalla says. If they’re left untreated, however, they can progress into the full-blown, angry pimples you know and loathe.
To help you avoid that fate, we asked dermatologists for the best ways to keep these stubborn blemishes under control.
So what are closed comedones, exactly?
Like most types of acne, closed comedones form when excess oil and dead skin cells plug one of your hair follicles (a.k.a. pores). This clog causes a raised bump that can be white (hence the name whitehead) or flesh-colored but isn’t yet inflamed or painful, Clarissa Yang, MD, chief of dermatology at Tufts Medical Center in Boston, tells SELF. (If your pimple does have a head that’s begging to be squeezed, that’s a papule or pustule—more on that below.)
Open comedones, on the other hand, develop when the buildup inside your pore is exposed (or, well, opened) to air and oxidizes, which causes the spot to turn black. (Yep, that’s why we call them blackheads).
What causes closed comedones?
Again, closed comedones pop up when dead skin and sebum (the skin’s natural oils) get trapped within the hair follicle. (Pore-clogging ingredients can contribute too.) If the area gets irritated by bacteria, though—which can happen when you touch your face—whiteheads can evolve into inflammatory acne.
Technically, “anyone can get closed comedones,” Dr. Mariwalla says. But a bunch of factors can increase your chances, like, as we mentioned, using occlusive beauty products (meaning they seal off the top layer of skin). Things out of your control, such as fluctuations in certain hormones (progesterone and testosterone are two biggies) can also ramp up sebum production and clog pores, leading to—you guessed it—hormonal acne manifesting as closed comedones. (But just so you know, this form of acne can also appear as cysts, papules, pustules, or really any type of blemish.)
“Whiteheads can happen anywhere on the face [where there are] sebaceous glands,” Dr. Mariwalla adds. However, paying attention to where, exactly, you experience flare-ups can help you pinpoint the potential cause: If the bumps are concentrated around your hairline or forehead, for instance, Dr. Yang suggests that an irritating or oil-based hair product might be to blame. In contrast, whiteheads primarily along your chin and jawline (areas loaded with oil glands) usually indicate hormonal acne.
Here’s how to treat closed comedones—and prevent more from popping up in the future.
Closed comedones sometimes disappear on their own, but don’t count on that: They can take weeks or months to clear up, Dr. Yang says. And if they don’t go away naturally, there’s a chance that they’ll progress in the other direction, becoming larger, more inflamed, and harder to get rid of.
So to manage any existing whiteheads—and prevent new ones from showing up—here are a few derm-approved treatment options to try:
More often than not, physically applying stress to a blemish (i.e. squeezing or picking) will do more harm than good, Dr. Mariwalla warns: It’ll likely become irritated and inflamed, and possibly grow into an even larger cyst. Plus, the pressure from pushing or poking causes physical trauma to the delicate skin, which can leave you with significant scarring and lingering hyperpigmentation (dark spots), she adds.
If an ingredient is comedogenic, that means it’s likely to block your pores and trigger pimples. That’s why you’ll want to look for something non-comedogenic to avoid whiteheads—and breakouts in general.
Keep in mind, this labeling system has its drawbacks and you may still have issues with products that claim to be non-comedogenic. But a good place to start, according to the derms we spoke with, is tossing any makeup, cleansers, moisturizers, or serums containing known pore blockers like silicones, coconut oil, castor oil, and vitamin E.
“The key to getting rid of closed comedones is addressing your clogged pores,” Dr. Mariwalla says—and that’s where chemical exfoliants come into play. These topical treatments work by dissolving the dead skin cells plugging up your follicles.
For acne-prone or oily skin, she recommends exfoliants like salicylic acid or glycolic acid to slough off any buildup. Another less intense option to consider is lactic acid, which buffs and hydrates. Whatever you choose, just be careful: Actives can be harsh on sensitive and dry skin. (If that sounds like you, start by using a chemical exfoliant once a week and—if there’s no stinging, flaking, or itching—then move up to twice a week.)
This classic treatment has earned its pimple-fighting reputation, Samantha Conrad, MD, founder of Conrad Petersen Dermatology in Chicago, tells SELF. It works by killing Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria most commonly linked to acne. However, benzoyl peroxide can also dry out or irritate your face if you use it too frequently or in too-high concentrations. For this reason, derms previously told SELF that anyone with dehydrated or sensitive skin should stick to formulations with no more than 2.5%. “[These people] should also use a lightweight, hydrating moisturizer without actives, because keeping the skin barrier intact will counter irritation and prevent more breakouts,” Dr. Mariwalla adds.
5. Consider introducing an over-the-counter retinoid.
This class of ingredients, which includes retinol, retinal, and adapalene (Differin), are all derivatives of vitamin A that speed up the cell turnover process. Basically, that means your skin cells will shed more quickly, preventing them from congesting your pores.
Like benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids can also be strong and irritating. Beginners and folks with sensitive or dry skin should use them two or three times a week at first, then consider gradually increasing the frequency if all is well. It’s also important to avoid using other potentially irritating ingredients (like the chemical exfoliants and benzoyl peroxide we praised above) on the same nights you apply a retinoid: Not only can combining too many drying products make your face freak out, but Dr. Conrad says it might also irritate—and worsen—existing closed comedones. Instead, keep things simple with a basic, active-free moisturizer.
Ideally, you should start noticing some improvement in a few weeks or months. “You want to use [these products] long enough for them to actually do their job—they’re not going to work in five days,” Dr. Conrad says. If you’re not seeing any progress after two months, or your skin is getting even worse, it might be time to see a board-certified dermatologist, who can prescribe stronger acne treatments.
Your doctor can also gently extract your whiteheads, if they see fit. We get that it’s tempting to try to do this yourself in front of the bathroom mirror, but please leave it to the pros to avoid scarring or infection. Besides, with all the other derm-approved remedies we recommended above, you now have plenty of better (and much safer) options to clear things up from home.
Related:
- How to Use Tretinoin for the Best, Least Irritating Results
- The Best Skin Care for Acne-Prone Skin, According to Dermatologists
- Here’s How Much Sunscreen You Actually Need on Your Face
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